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The House of Worth by Kay Burton...

The House of Worth was in all probability the first ever haute couture firm, founded in Paris by Charles Fredrick Worth the 'father of haute couture’ and which was continued on by his sons, Gaston and Jean-Phillipe.

"Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings..."

Charles Fredrick Worth was born in Bourne, Lincolnshire, England in1824. He worked in several successful London drapery shops before moving to Paris in 1846. Almost certainly being inspired by the growing demands of ladies fashion requirements, lead primarily by the interest in the clothes of the young Queen Victoria and of course her beautiful wedding gown created in 1840. He was hired as an assistant draper by Gagelin and Opigez, at 83 Rue Richelieu, Paris, where he was to remain for over ten years, rising to manager. Among his innovations, a technique still used today, was the introduction of ready-made calico dress samples from which clients could choose a style; he would then match the choice to an appropriate fabric.

He fell in love with one of the firm's models, Marie Vernet. Marie would model shawls and bonnets and demonstrated the features of the cloths as draped on a real woman! They were married on May 21st 1851 just six weeks after the Great Exhibition opened at the Crystal Palace. Several of Worth's designs were shown there and he was awarded a gold medal.  

Spurred on by his own success, he opened his own fashion house, “The House of Worth” with the backing of a wealthy Swede, Otto Bobergh in 1858 and soon became the centre of the world of fashion. Worth was patronised by the wife of Napoleon III the Empress Eugénie, and after that by many titled, rich, and otherwise notable women. He also dressed actresses such as Sarah Bernhardt, Lillie Langtry, Nellie Melba, and Jenny Lind.

 

Many of his customers travelled to Paris not just from France and England but from other countries, coming from as far away as New York, particularly for the much sort after designer made wedding and ball gowns. 

Worth's designs are notable for his use of lavish fabrics and trimmings, his incorporation of elements of historic dress, and his attention to fit and redefine the female shape with simple but flattering outlines.While the designer still created one-of-a-kind pieces for his most important clients, he is especially known for preparing a variety of designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. His portfolios of designs were always on hand for his clients and prospective brides to make their selections and have gowns tailor-made in Worth's workshop.

Charles sons, Gaston-Lucien (1853–1924) and Jean-Philippe (1856–1926), took over the running of their father's business following his death in 1895 and succeeded in maintaining his high standards. Jean-Philippe's designs in particular follow his father's aesthetic, with his use of fabulous fabrics and sumptuous trimmings, being “the place” to buy the perfect wedding gown.

 

The House of Worth flourished during the sons' possession right into the 1920s. The great fashion dynasty finally came to an end in 1952 when Charles Frederick Worth's great-grandson, Jean-Charles (1881–1962), retired from the family business.

Written by Kay Burton

www.kayburton.co.uk

Pictured Above - 1/12 scale portfolio made by Dateman Books.

filled with Victorian bridal fashion design sketches, and real coloured silk swatches by Kay Burton,  typical of those that were created by Charles Fredrick Worth and an ideal addition to a miniature bridal boutique.

 

Pictured Below - 1/12 scale mounted fashion designs . Designs like these almost certainly would have been on display in “The House of Worth”