Top Hats: A 'Tall' Story...

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By Margaret Pitts - AKA The MiniMilliner...

The top hat today is associated with splendid occasions such as weddings, Ascot etc, (otherwise known as a “ posh do” ), but this was not always the case...

The History of 'The Top Hat'...

Back in 1797 when the first top hat appeared in London, it almost caused a riot. The wearer, John Hetherington, apparently terrified passers-by in the street to such an extent that ….. ”women fainted, children screamed, dogs yelped and an errand boy’s arm was broken when he was trampled by the mob.”  Hetherington was accused in court of wearing “a tall structure having a shining lustre calculated to frighten timid people” and was bound over to keep the peace in the sum of £500, which was an enormous amount of money at that time.  In fact he was only wearing a taller, black silk version of a beaver riding hat that was quite common at the time and when all the fuss had died down, the black silk “tall”  hat  began to gain in popularity.

 

The original hats were made from beaver fur and in order to soften the pelts, they were treated with mercury nitrate, a highly toxic chemical. The hatters who were in regular contact with this poisonous substance often developed serious mental and psychotic problems and it is said that is where the phrase “as mad as a hatter” originated.

Possibly because of this, tall hats were also made in a variety of other materials, including straw, leather and even wood. They also came in several different colours such as brown, white, grey, green and maroon, as well as the more traditional black.

 

 

The first black silk top hats were made in Florence around 1760 from  “plush” or “shag” and by the early 1800s they were being produced in England. The wearing of a top hat by Prince Albert set the seal of approval on the style and the nineteenth century became the hey-day of the top hat. The height of the crown and the width of the brim fluctuated between the decades, but they reached such ridiculous proportions that a Frenchman, Antoine Gibus, invented a collapsible top hat specifically for opera-goers when there was no longer room for them in the cloakrooms! Another Frenchman attained notoriety by being the first conjuror to pull a rabbit out of a top hat in 1814.

Although the collapsible top hats were normally associated with the opera, they also played a part in British politics until as recently as 1998. In the House of Commons, members wishing to raise a point of order during a division were required to wear a top hat. Large numbers of these hats obviously took up a great amount of space, so collapsible ones were kept permanently in the House for this purpose up to just ten years ago.

 

Sadly, silk plush top hats are no longer made. Production stopped around 1980 when the owners of the last looms  ( two brothers in Lyon) fell out and the looms were destroyed. Making new looms would be prohibitively expensive, together with the fact that each top hat requires a large amount of silk, cut on the cross, so it is unlikely that the manufacturing of these beautiful hats will ever be resumed.

 

On a happier note, there are still many vintage, refurbished hats to be found (at a price) and if you happen to have one in the attic, it could be worth a bob or two!

Of course grey felt top hats are now seen at Ascot and are also very popular at weddings, so the tradition lives on…….. just in a different colour and fabric………and nobody  faints or screams at all !


Written by

Margaret Pitts ( AKA “ MiniMilliner”)

www.minimilliner.co.uk